LocalGrubber.com

Review: Sparrow Kitchen and Cocktails—A Masterclass in Appetizers and Desserts

We ate at Sparrow Kitchen and Cocktails in Garden City over the weekend.  Overall, the dining experience starts with a bang, stumbles a bit in the middle, and finishes with a standing ovation.

The Atmosphere

The decor at Sparrow Kitchen is one of the highlights of the restaurant.  It balances a vibe of sophisticated and cozy.  The aesthetic sets a high bar for the evening.

The Headliners: Appetizers & Small Plates

Honestly, Sparrow excels at its Starters section of the menu.  The smart move is to focus on appetizers and skip the entrees. 

The Popovers: These are a must order dish.  The popovers are airy, buttery, and served warm, they are the perfect opening act.

Veal Meatballs: These were a standout, a tender, perfectly seasoned, and swimming in a sauce that begged to be swiped up with a piece of bread.

Pizza: The crust was airy and crunchy with a great balance of cheese and sauce.  A great appetizer that leads well into other dishes.

Cacio e Pepe: It’s a simple dish that is remarkably easy to mess up, but Sparrow Kitchen delivers a version that is creamy, sharp, and hits those peppery notes exactly right.

The Middle Ground: The Entrees

This is where the momentum, unfortunately, hits a bit of a snag. While the presentation remains lovely, the entrees felt lackluster compared to the high-energy flavors of the appetizers.

Whatever the reason, we recommend that you just skip the entrees and focus on appetizers and desserts. 

The Redemption: Desserts

Luckily, the kitchen finds its footing again just in time for the finale. You absolutely cannot leave without ordering:

  1. Banana Pudding: It’s nostalgic, creamy, and arguably one of the best versions you’ll find in the area.
  2. Gelato Cookie Sandwich: A massive, decadent treat that feels like a childhood dream upgraded for an adult palate.

The Verdict: Sparrow Kitchen is a gorgeous space with a kitchen that clearly knows how to handle dough, cheese, and sugar. While the entrees are not memorable, the popovers, meatballs, and desserts certainly might. Go for the apps, stay for the decor, and definitely save room for the pudding.